Uglich is one of the prettiest cities to approach from the water, with five or six onion-domed churches right along the waterfront.
It is on the Volga River and was founded in 937 during the reign of Prince Igor, the ruler that united Kiev Rus. Uglich became a principality in 1218 and survived the Mongol invasion. By 1328 the local prince sold his right to rule to Moscow, joining the town to future Russia. Despite this, the ancient settlement was a favorite target of any faction that sought to attack the Muscovite principality, including Lithuanians, Tatars, and Poles. Today, it is a small town of 34,000 people, 10 churches, 2 nunneries and a monastery. As is the case all over Russia, many of the churches are now museums. We had lovely weather, mid 70’s, and clear skies.
The architecture of the old town is classical.
The Cathedral of the Transfiguration of our Savior has six tiers of icons. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures because a service was underway. The first church was blown up during the Polish invasion. The murals that date to 1811, illustrate scenes from the New Testament and are rendered in the Italian style popular at the time. The cathedral was the summer church.
Directly behind it, the Epiphany Cathedral was the winter church. Today, it is a museum of Russian art. We were treated to a beautiful acapella rendition of several traditional Russian songs. Although 80% of Russians identify themselves as Russian Orthodox, only 3.5% attend services regularly.
Next, we saw the Church of St. Dimitry-on-Blood, built on the spot where Prince Dimitry, youngest son of Ivan the Terrible, was killed as a young boy. He was killed by those trying to control the throne and led to the Time of Troubles, that ended n 1613 with the election of the 16 year-old Michael Romanov to the throne and the beginning of the Romanov dynasty.
Beside the church stands the oldest building in town, the 15th century remnant of the red brick palace of local princes. The rest of the town was demolished in the Time of Troubles by the second pretender to the throne.
Anna, one of our guides.
Uglich turned out to be one of the best shopping stops. Vendors were willing to bargain because it was close to the end of their season.