This Woman Was Here

Evora, day 2

We began with a delicious breakfast at the hotel,fresh fruit, flaky pastries, European coffee, all wonderful. We wandered up the hill, this time with a better idea where we were going and found the Roman temple right away.

Behind the temple is the Cathedral Se, built in the late 1600s.

We began by climbing the spiral stone staircase to the roof, with beautiful views of the surrounding area.

Next we visited the cloisters, also with a rooftop view.

Then we visited the choir above the cathedral.

The cathedral has the oldest organs in Europe. It also has one of the few statues of the virgin pregnant.

We also visited the treasury with lots of religious art featuring finely worked silver from the new world. After that we wandered back to the Pradca do Giralso (Ok, getting a little lost on the way). We managed to find a cork shop where the guys bought cork hats.

Then we made our way downhill to the restaurant outside the city walls we missed yesterday, Vino Vo’s. After a melted cheese appetizer, I had wild boar with chestnuts, unbelievably delicious.

After lunch we stopped at St Balse Hermitage church from the 15th century. Then we drove out tot the Almendras Cromelich(about 20 min out of town) neolithic standing stones started in 6,000 BC and in use until 3,000BC. It was at the end of an unbelievably rutted dirt road, but worth it.

Some of the stones have designs in them (very difficult to make out).

We also stopped to see the single standing stone menhir, which was abou 15 feet high.

We were surrounded by fields of cork trees, beautiful in the late light.

We had dinner at the hotel, which was amazingly good. The dogfish and coriander soup and the braised lamb shank were both spectacular.

Algarve west coast, Monchique, Silves, day 5

We began by driving west to the Vicentina coast and drove to the Carrapateira walking trail, a huge wind-sweat beach and headland with high cliffs.

Looking north

Looking south

There is a 5.7 k circular trail along the coast, but with winds close to 35mph, we only did a small portion of it.

Then we headed north and inland to Monchique, driving through rich green mountains and valleys with terraced fields. Monchique is an artsy small town. We had lunch in a sunny cafe ( piri piri chicken and fresh sardines) before exploring the town.

Our last stop was in Silves, which was once the Moorish capital of the Algarve before knights on their way to the holy lands retook the area from the Moors. The castle is one of the best preserved in the region and dates back to the 900s under Moorish rule. It is red sandstone.

Cistern

Beside the fort is a rather austere 12th century cathedral where many of the knights who were killed in the battle foe Silves are buried.

The town of Silves is charming, with tiny cobbled streets and old houses.

Punta Arenas, Chile

We were off the boat early for a catamaran excursion to see the Magellan penguin reserve found on Magdalena Island. Skies were blue but temperatures were in the mid forties and the wind was whipping, which made it feel even colder. The boat ride into the Magellan Straits to the island took about an hour and a half.

More than 9,000 pairs of mating penguins are on the island this year, down from 15,000 last year. No one can explain the drop.

People are confined to a roped path that rises to the 1902 lighthouse and descends again.
We were also told to give penguins the right of way if one wants to cross the path in front of us.

Thousands of austral gulls were also nesting on the island.

The main predator on both chicks is the Chilean skua, a large brown bird. The primary penguin predator are sea lions, and their numbers are up because the orca whales who prey on them did not show up last year. The penguins make a braying sound when they feel someone or something is too close to their nest.

When we returned to Punta Arenas, we decided we wanted to try some king crab for lunch and found La Luna ( recommended bu one of the guides on the boat). Not only did we try the crab but also conger eel ( served with scallops, shrimp, and muscles), a delicious meal. Next, we found the main square with a statue of Magellan. At the base of the statue is a native Indian with a shiny brass toe, the story being if you touch or kiss his toe, you will return to Punta Arenas.
The square is filled with blooming trees and surrounded by beautiful old mansions, many now museums. Unfortunately, several of these were boarded up, presumably in response to the protests, which must have reached here.

Later that evening, we sailed into beautiful snow-capped mountain ranges with hanging glaciers in some of the valleys.

El Yunque Rain forest, Fajardo

From Boqueron, El Yunque is a 3 hour drive. The only road into the forest is from the north so we were routed through the outskirts of San Juan, which was our first taste of traffic and multi lane highways

great source of info on El Yunque

El Yunque National Forest, Puerto Rico (2024 Guide) – All You Need To Know

We enjoyed El Portal, the visitor center and the short walk behind it. Lots of tropical flowers.

There no doubt we’re in the rainforest.

Well disguised Green leaf hopper

The park was crowded and all the parking areas were full except the picnic area, from which we began a climb that soon turned too strenuous for us.

The boys decided to hike to the top of Yunque and we chose to stay behind and chill since Steve’s back was giving him trouble after lifting one too many suitcases. We saw an ambulance and a rescue truck heading past us up the mountain and several minutes later got a call from JP saying a hiker had fallen and they were helping him down the mountain and not to expect them right away. That was about 3:30. At 5:30, after the park had officially closed, they finally showed up, telling a story of an older gentleman who had fallen and hit his head with a lot of blood loss. Jordan, who had wilderness first aid training, applied a tourniquet that stopped the bleeding, and they and two other young men helped him down to a service road where the paramedics picked him up and took him to the hospital. This will be their second mountain rescue assist.
We didn’t get to Croabas, where we’re staying at Suenos del Mar in a two bedroom apartment with a balcony overlooking the bay, until almost 6:30. We could see kayakers taking off to paddle out to the bio bay against a strong wind.
After showers, we headed 2 minutes down the street to a fantastic seafood restaurant, Pescatora, for another unbelievable dinner.

The next morning we were woken early by a chorus of roosters. We had about a 20 min drive to the Sea Ventures dive shop in Marina Puerto del Rey. We left from Safe Harbor, the largest marina in the Caribbean. We saw thousands of boats, some of the biggest I’ve ever seen.

This one rents for 200K a week.

We had fewer than 20 people aboard and the crew was wonderful.

One described what he called the apocalypse after Hurricane Maria and Irma. You cold buy a damaged 50 ft boat (that insurance had paid off) for 2K.

After a 25 minute motor out to Palomino Island, we snorkeled in crystal clear water and saw two turtles and lots of tropical fish.

Unfortunately, also a good bit of dead coral. Then it was time for lunch and the bar opened. We motored to Icacos Island where we played on the beach and in the water (with bar service from the boat). We went with this outfit because it advertises itself as a snorkel tour, not a party boat, but there was no shortage of party on Icacos.

That afternoon we drove into old San Juan, found a parking garage recommended but the hotel, and checked into the San Cristobal Suite in Fortaleza Suites where we have two bedrooms, two baths, a living room and full kitchen right on Fortaleza street.

We were so tired after our morning in the sun and water that we opted for showers and a nap before heading out to explore old San Juan.

San Juan

I chose to stay in Fortaleza Suites, the San Cristobal 2 bedroom suite in downtown old San Juan (315 Fortaleza Street) because I wanted to be able to explore the nightlife in old San Juan without having to drive.

map of old San Juan

https://www.myvirtualvacations.net/map-of-old-san-juan.html

San Juan walking tour

Old San Juan Walking Tour | One Day Puerto Rico Itinerary

That night we explored the area near our hotel, Plaza Colon, where we will take a walking tour in the morning (sign up in advance). Castillo San Cristobal overlooks the square and the town.

We ate at Raices, recommended for Puerto Rican food, and it was delicious.

The boys both had mofongo (mashed plantains) with skirt steak.

The next morning we joined a walking tour of Old San Juan in Plaza Colon.

University facing Plaza Colon specializing in theater

Franciscan church built in 1730s

Municipal building

Stained glass of flamboyan in municipal building

El Moro, situated to protect port and Atlantic

Cemetery outside walls

It was so hot in the city that as soon as the tour was over, we grabbed empanadas and we drove to our next stop, Arecibo.

Arecibo

We’re staying two nights in the Hotel Ventanas al Atlantico in a suite with a balcony looking out over the pool and ocean. It’s a gorgeous location on a nearly deserted beach but the room was a little run down (squeaky beds, no light in fridge). It doesn’t supply anything (paper towels, coffee, shampoo) so you need to prepare accordingly. We found a small supermarket behind a pharmacy just down the street where we could buy ice, eggs, bread, and bug spray for the noseeums.

The next day the boys chose to relax and enjoy the ocean rather than head out on an eco adventure (which the area is known for). For lunch we ate at a barbecue restaurant a mile down the street that the boys swear has the best Mac and cheese with burn tips ever.

Cuevas del Indio, just a short way down the road, has Taino Indian petroglyphs dating back to the 13th century.

Also 7 arches on the ocean. The cliffs are sharp volcanic rock so shoes are a must.

Unfortunately we never made it here because

For our last day, I managed to get reservations for the Rio Camuey Cave Park by emailing Cavernasdecamuy@drna.pr.gov It took several weeks to hear back but we got 9am reservations. You need to arrive 30 min before your booking, wear closed toe, rubber sole shoes. The tour takes 1-2 hours

The caves were fascinating but significantly impacted by Hurricane Maria, which flooded the caves with mud and knocked out the power that once illuminated the walls and formations. It’s harder to take pictures but seeing the cave illuminated only by flashlight is magical.

Cuevas del Indio, just a short way down the road from our hotel has Taino Indian petroglyphs dating back to the 13th century.